Summer in the National Parks

Despite the travel challenges immediately following Covid in 2020, in the past few years national parks saw record visitor numbers. The Grand Canyon saw 4.7 million visitors, second only to Great Smoky Mountains National Park which saw 13.3 million visitors. Since it’s looking like that trend will continue in 2026, there are a few parks in particular that are essential to plan ahead for this year.

Summer is the most popular time to visit most National parks, so it’s key to book in advance. July and August in particular bring the best weather and it’s a fantastic time to take in one of the most spectacular landscapes in North America. The Grand Canyon, Zion, Yellowstone, The Great Smoky Mountains and Yosemite are all in the top five most popular American national parks to visit so if you’re hoping to visit these during peak season, planning ahead is crucial.

In an effort to manage the mass amount of visitors and preserve the pristine wilderness in these areas, many parks have implemented new reservation and timed-entry systems. Mountain Rainier, Glacier, Arches, Rocky Mountain, Yosemite, Yellowstone, Arches, and Acadia National Parks are some of the more popular spots that require reservations during peak season, with many more starting pilot programs this year.

National Park Road Trip Inspiration: Yellowstone and Grand Teton Road Trip 

Fall in New England

It’s no secret that New England shines in autumn. Every September, visitors trek from all over the country to witness the fall foliage change from bright greens to golden-reds. But the charming trait of New England is its small-town feel and with such a small window (sometimes only two weeks) to drive the fall colored highways, room availability and timing are limited. 

Reservations at some of our favorite boutique getaways and luxury inns are quickly filling up, so if you fancy spending your autumn amongst bright falling leaves, winding between cheddar creameries and cider mills, and enveloped in the salty air of coastal Atlantic towns, start the planning of your custom journey through New England soon.

New England Fall Road Trip Inspiration: Luxury Holiday to New England

Alaska

As a general rule, an exploration through the wild terrain of Alaska is not an adventure that you want to enter into haphazardly. It’s a huge state with miles of remote frontier, so you need to have a strategy for how you’ll get where and who will be guiding the way. 

Plus, because of the extreme weather, there’s a short window of opportunity in the warmer months to access much of Alaska, meaning high demand for the best places. Not-to-mention, the surge of extreme weather in recent years can be an impediment to seeing certain National Parks (Denali Park Road, in Denali National Park, remains closed through 2026 do to a landslide). For all of these reasons, it’s always best to plan ahead.

Our Alaska luxury travel specialists have handpicked the finest wilderness lodges, expert private guides, and standout experiences so as to design a luxury Alaska vacation to remember. From aquamarine glaciers, steep-walled fjords, majestic grizzlies, endless snow-capped mountain ranges, and breaching humpbacks; there’s an abundance of ‘bucket-list’ Alaska experiences spread across a vast geography. 

Alaskan Road Trip Inspiration: Luxury Alaska Vacation: Adventures on the Kenai Peninsula

The Harvest in California Wine Country

Around late September, California wine country bustles with energy during the harvest. Vineyards race to pick their grapes at their peak ripeness, the weather begins to cool and the smell of harvest fills the valleys. This is always an exciting time to visit, but finding reservations in this small wine region can be competitive. The already limited rooms at our favorite boltholes, like the Inn at Newport Ranch in Mendocino or Sonoma’s Farmhouse Inn, won’t last long. 

Likewise, the harvest being a time of great culinary celebration, tables will quickly fill up at the many acclaimed (and Michelin-starred) restaurants in California’s wine country region. A key part of All Roads North’s trip planning services is making sure you get the reservations you want and we’ll be keeping an eye on openings at legends like Napa Valley’s French Laundry or Sonoma’s SingleThread Farm for those hoping to indulge their taste buds this year.

Wine Country Inspiration: Napa and Sonoma in Style

Spring Break

It’s always a good idea to plan ahead for spring break, but especially this year. Domestic travel in the U.S. during March is increasing and, in fact, in 2024 airlines saw their busiest March ever. In 2026, numbers are expected to increase even more.

Arizona is a beautiful place to visit in the spring, whether finding rest and relaxation amongst the sacred red rocks of Sedona or searching out adventure in the saguaro cactus-studded desert surrounding Tucson. Or, take advantage of the sun and sea in Southern California. From surfing to hiking to fine dining to art exhibits, you’ll never have to suffer a dull moment. For spring breakers looking for a cultural immersion, look no further than New Orleans. Dynamic and diverse, this city is larger than life in almost every area; not least food, music and history.

Southwest Road Trip Inspiraiton: The Red Rock and Canyon Country of Arizona and Utah

Luxury Ranches

Blending authentic ranch life with luxury bells and whistles is something that the U.S. does best. From Montana to Arizona, many of our favorite ranches consist of several stand-alone cabins with a main lodge centered in their midst– a setup that became popular during Covid due to its inherent socially distanced structure. 

Not only the accommodation but also the accompanying activities allow for seclusion. Most luxury ranches, like the Ranch at Rock Creek in Montana or Smith Rock Ranch in Colorado, offer endless outdoor activities, like horseback riding, fishing and hiking, all from one secluded base.

Luxury Ranch Road Trip Inspiration: A Private Ranch Road Trip in West Texas

Mountain Towns

Whether you are planning to ski in the winter, raft in the summer or hike amongst golden aspen in autumn, mountain towns never go out of season. The difficult decision isn’t deciding if you want to get away for some alpine fresh air, it’s more of a question of where you’ll go. Here are some of our favorites (and the ones that will book up the fastest):

Jackson, Wyoming is a bit of a dichotomy. On one hand, Jackson is an old western town with wooden boardwalks, swinging saloon doors and its signature elk antler arches in the main square. On the other, it’s a chic mountain town that has become a playground for the well-heeled and adventurous. Aspen, Colorado is similar in that way– with perhaps a little more glitz than grit. What most defines Aspen though is its exceptional natural beauty. Walking down Main Street in Telluride, Colorado, you’ll understand why it’s often described as the quintessential mountain town. The spunk of its mining town origins is miraculously preserved and its location nestled in the valley of a box canyon causes just about any angle of the town to be picture perfect. Taos, New Mexico is a mountain town infused with the blend of Mexican, Spanish and Native American culture that New Mexico is known for. It’s rich in cultural experiences and full of adventurous outdoor activities as well.

Mountain Towns Road Trip Inspiration: Luxury Family Adventure in Colorado

The post Seven Places to Book Ahead for 2026 appeared first on All Roads North.

All Roads North founder Sam Highley recently joined the board of Sequoia Parks Conservancy to serve in the mission to conserve this special part of the world. In the face of several challenges from devastating wildfires to extreme rainfall, an estimated 10-14% of the Sierra Nevada’s sequoias were killed in the last three years. Needless to say, SPC has had their work cut out for them as of late. Through a variety of interesting programs, the organization supports education, research, and restoration that aim to preserve Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks. 

On a curating trip with All Roads North, you can support conservation efforts simply by exploring the magical home of the giant sequoias with our SPC partners. Here are just a few of the ongoing SPC programs we’re excited to support:

Saving the Sequoias

California’s recent serious drought, from 2012 to 2015, exacerbated by high temperatures in part due to greenhouse gas emissions, was especially severe in the southern Sierra Nevada and has resulted in 5.8 million dead trees within these two parks. In response, SPC is proposing to bolster their research efforts with seedling planting to replace what was lost. Establishing seedlings in severely burned areas would point these groves toward recovery of their pre-fire forest compositions, as they would have done naturally had they not experienced severe fires. The NPS estimates that planting may be necessary on up to roughly 1,200 acres of previously forested areas.

Preserving Wildlife

Pacific Fisher

Several of the SPC’s programs focus on specific threatened wildlife species within sequoia habitats. For example, mountain yellow-legged tree frogs play a critical role maintaining biodiversity in these ecosystems, but they have disappeared from more than 92% of historic sites in the Sierra Nevada, with similarly large losses in the parks. Non-native trout and disease caused by amphibian chytrid fungus are the primary reasons for their decline. Some other current wildlife-centered projects include protecting black bears from human conflict and reintroducing Sierra Nevada bighorn sheep to the Sierra Nevada Crest.

Another prominent wildlife project centers around the Pacific Fisher– a small, endangered mammal that lives in the Sierra Nevada mountains. Fishers depend on old-growth forest habitat for their survival, and much of this habitat has been destroyed by wildfire over the past decade. SPC funded GPS collars to understand if fishers are living within the KNP Complex burn scar and how they are using or avoiding different areas which will help park managers prevent impacts on fishers.

Accessibility and Education

Accessibility and education are two categories that make up a sizable portion of the SPC’s work. There are more than 1,000 miles of trail in Sequoia and Kings Canyon National Parks, and they don’t maintain themselves. With two million visitors exploring the parks each year, the park trail systems experience a fair amount of wear and tear. And since Sequoia and Kings Canyon is 98% wilderness, crews often have to travel to remote locations and stay there for months.

Experiences Among the Sequoias

At All Roads North, we love to partner clients with experts that are making a difference. Sequoia Parks Conservancy is the perfect example: We’ll pair you with an SPC guide to explore the heartland of the giant sequoia trees in whatever way interests you most. Embark on a backpacking trip for an epic astrophotography experience in the backcountry. Enjoy the serenity of the giant sequoias with a focus on wellness and restoration. Follow your guide to the best wildflower fields and learn about how all of the surrounding flora and fauna is connected in a delicate ecosystem. Your one-of-a-kind experience will play its role in supporting the SPC’s research and conservation efforts. To support the organization directly, you can choose the program you wish to support by donating here.

Sample Itinerary: Stunning Yosemite and Sequoia National Parks

The post Sequoia Parks Conservancy’s Efforts to Save California’s Giants appeared first on All Roads North.

Dark sky areas– places with little to no interference from artificial light– are the best for observing the night sky in its full glory. Many of these areas are often protected lands where nature is intentionally preserved: namely, national parks. 

Venture into these wild lands of America and All Roads North will pair you with professional astronomers to make the most of your starry-sky experience. You’ll get a glimpse of far-reaching galaxies and even take a peek at the rings of Saturn with experts who’ll provide powerful telescopes and in-depth knowledge of the cosmos.

The Best Dark Sky Parks to Visit in the USA:

Joshua Tree and Death Valley

Death Valley Stargazing, By Greg McKay

The isolation of Southern California’s gorgeous desert parks are prime spots to observe the night sky in all its glory. Home to otherworldly boulder formations and funky, scraggly trees, Joshua Tree is a known favorite with artists and rock climbers. Death Valley is home to majestic mountains, salt flats and colorful rocks, as well as the lowest point in North America. A moonless summer night is the best time to see the glowing, hazy Milky Way. However, long winter nights (with the sun sometimes setting as early as 4:30 p.m.!) allow for a long evening of star gazing before going to bed.

Bryce Canyon

Many of Utah’s five national parks are great places to find dark, starry skies, but there’s something magical about how the heavens light up above the ghostly hoodoos of Bryce Canyon. It’s popular to take in the starry night from Sunset Point. But if you want to take your experience to the next level, we’ll pair you with a small family business of expert astronomers, boasting a collective century of stargazing experience. Depending on your interests, you’ll learn about the possibility of extraterrestrial life, the importance of preserving natural darkness, or about how female minds were essential in putting men on the moon. 

Suggested itinerary: An Odyssey through Utah’s National Parks

Big Bend

Another certified Dark Sky Park, Big Bend National Park is a great place to soak up those wide, open Texas skies. A stargazing session is the perfect way to end an adventurous day paddling the Rio Grande or exploring the park’s varied terrain by ATV. For an even closer look at the Texas night sky, we’ll pair you with an astronomer at the renowned McDonald Observatory to view the heavens through the largest telescope in Texas. 

Suggested itinerary: A Private Ranch Road Trip Through West Texas

Sequoia and Kings Canyon

Sequoia and Kings Canyon are known for more than their iconic giant sequoia trees. The high elevation and remote location in the Sierra Nevada makes for prime stargazing. Falling stars are particularly common sightings, with some estimates citing 80 shooting stars per hour at night. During certain times of year, you may even see more dramatic celestial events, such as the Perseid Meteor Shower. Sequoia and Kings Canyon are hosting their ninth annual Dark Sky Festival in late September, which will celebrate the beauties of dark skies with presentations by astronomers and astronauts. 

Suggested itinerary: Stunning Yosemite and Sequoia National Parks

The post The Best National Parks for Stargazing appeared first on All Roads North.

All Roads North had the honor of asking Luong a few questions about his adventures in America’s lesser-known wilderness spaces:

ARN: After having visited every national park, what surprised you most about the national monuments?

QTL: I was surprised to find the national monuments managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) and the U.S. Forest Service (USFS) to be so wild, with even fewer facilities than I expected.  With the exceptions of national parks in Alaska and a few island parks, when you visit even the lesser developed national parks, you are guaranteed to find paved roads, trails, a visitor center, and restrooms. Some of the national monuments are entirely devoid of such basic facilities. Sometimes, there is so little signage that you don’t even know you’ve entered the national monument.

Why do you think it’s important to explore lesser-known national monuments, or as your book refers to them: “America’s hidden gems”?

First, you have to understand why those national monuments are important. The 22 land national monuments in the book cover a significant portion of the American landscape, totaling about 11 million acres. They represent a broad cross-section of natural environments, from deep canyons to high mountains, from cactus-covered plains to conifer forests, and from deserts to lush river habitats. For comparison, the 51 national parks in the contiguous United States total about 19 million acres. The marine national monuments are another order of magnitude, totaling 218 million acres. Besides their vastness and diversity, the monuments under review hold natural and historical treasures that rival those found in our beloved national parks. Almost half of our treasured national parks started as national monuments, so in some sense, they could be viewed as future national parks.

We conserve only what we love, and we love only what we understand. However, the general public is not aware of the national monuments. There is nothing that brings better understanding and connection than a visit.  The more adventurous setting of the national monuments results in much lighter visitation, even though you can often find similar subjects and environments as in the nearby national parks. The national monuments offer the opportunity to discover lands out of the beaten path, free of crowds and of the strict rules of the national parks. This may not last forever. When Ed Abbey was a ranger at Arches National Monument and wrote his seminal Desert Solitaire, there was just a single dirt track leading into the monument. Last year, on several days Arches National Park had to close to further entries early in the morning due to overcrowding, and this year visitors will need to have an advance reservation to enter the park on a timed entry system.

Which national monuments were particularly memorable to you?

Each of them represents such a unique environment and different experiences that it is difficult to pick favorites, so where to start?  Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument is so vast and so diverse that one could spend a lifetime exploring it. Maybe I’ve developed a deeper relationship with it than with the other monuments since I’ve visited it since it was established in the mid-1990s. On each return trip, I always find new places to explore.

On the other hand, I had heard of, but not visited Upper Missouri Break National Monument until I started the project that lead to Our National Monuments. The visit was a special experience because whereas one visits the other monuments by driving and hiking, there I went on a four-day paddle trip along the Upper Missouri River. Floating at a slow pace, I connected with a time when the landscape of the West was wild, seeing little change since the days of the Lewis and Clark expedition, and finding remarkable geology that I did not expect in this part of the country. Then there is Grand Canyon-Parashant National Monument for its incredible remoteness and views of the Grand Canyon, Vermilion Cliffs National Monument for the otherwordly rock formations, Bears Ears for the treasure trove of ancient dwellings…

Your book makes a passionate case for conservation of these places…what do you see as the major threats and how can people help?

When the previous administration conducted the review of those national monuments in 2017, and subsequently dramatically reduced in size Bears Ears and Staircase-Escalante National Monuments, it was with an eye toward opening the door to industrial development and extraction. As citizens of this land, the voice, and votes of each of us count. The change of administration in 2021 brought for the first time a Native American to a cabinet position, Secretary of the Interior Deb Haaland. One of her first actions was to visit Bears Ears and Grand Staircase National Monuments and recommend the restorations of those two national monuments to their original size, which President Biden did on Oct 8, 2021. However, the threats have not gone away. The Republican politicians in Utah have not accepted the restorations and are preparing legal challenges. We should remember John Muir’s appeal that “the battle for conservation will go on endlessly.”  We can no longer take designations for granted.  As citizens who care for lands that belong to all of us, we need to remain vigilant and involved.

You’re known for favoring using a large-format camera– Was this the case for the National Monuments project? Why?

The book includes a few images made with the large-format camera from the 1990s, but I photographed this project mostly using digital cameras. The technical quality of the images they are producing has been steadily improving and is now close to the large-format film, and they offer much greater practicality and versatility while reducing the environmental impact if one photographs a lot.

You’ve spoken about Ansel Adams being a huge inspiration in the beginning of your career– which contemporary photographers inspire you?

David Muench’s body of work is unrivaled in the field of nature landscape photography. He made great photographs before I was born and is still active today.

What are you working on or excited by right now in your photography work?

I am mostly known for scenic landscape photographs of the national parks, but I have been working on a number of series that bring either different perspectives or more conceptual approaches to those places. With Our National Monuments, I have moved from national parks to lesser-known lands. I am now looking at even more hidden wild places that are not protected yet as national parks nor national monuments.

The post Capturing Wilderness: The Photography of QT Luong appeared first on All Roads North.

The most recognizable national parks, such as the Grand Canyon and Zion, are famous for a reason and are well-worth visiting. However, the U.S. is also home to many more national monuments, wilderness areas and public lands that all too often go unnoticed.

If you are looking to help reduce over-visitation and discover new hidden gems, consider our list of top national park alternatives. Many lesser-known public lands are just as beautiful and less crowded than their spotlight-stealing counterparts.

Instead of visiting Yosemite, try… Ansel Adams Wilderness

Ansel Adams Wilderness

Yosemite National Park is a highly sought after destination in California. With that inimitable view of Yosemite Valley and the geological wonder of Half Dome, it’s easy to see why. However, as a result of the pandemic, Yosemite began limiting visitation numbers with ticketed entry.

Luckily, if you want to experience the wonder of the Sierra Nevada mountains, there are options beyond the national park that are just as beautiful in their own unique ways. The Ansel Adams Wilderness spans the in between Yosemite and Mammoth. Renamed after the legendary wilderness photographer in 1984, this protected land features the same stunning high alpine landscapes that Yosemite is famous for.

Stretching for more than 230,000 acres, it’s the perfect setting for a pack trip and hiking to get away from the roads and experience the secluded peace of nature at its best. As you wander through the granite ridges and forest, you’ll be rewarded with sweeping views, wildflower-coated meadows and sparkling alpine lakes perfect for a refreshing swim.

Sample Itinerary: Ansel Adams Wilderness Pack Trip

Instead of visiting the Grand Canyon, try… Big Bend National Park

Big Bend National Park

The Grand Canyon is undoubtedly one of the U.S.’ most notable geological wonders and a worthy destination for any American road tripper. While there are always ways to escape the typical tour bus routes (such as venturing below the Grand Canyon’s rim), may we suggest an entirely different national park: Big Bend National Park.

Although Big Bend is two states east, these national parks are comparable because of the vast scale of their landscapes. The Grand Canyon strikes awe into any beholder because of its incomprehensible size. Likewise, as you drive, hike or even paddle the Rio Grande in Big Bend, you are constantly washed with the same feeling of wonder at the vast expanse around you.

Located along the Mexico-Texas border, Big Bend National Park covers a sprawling 1,252 square miles, including a diverse mixture of the Chihuahuan Desert, Chisos Mountains and Rio Grande River. There’s also a huge diversity of vegetation and wildlife to be found here. And, of course, that secluded, desert landscape means ideal stargazing country.

Sample Itinerary: A Private Ranch Road Trip in West Texas

Instead of visiting Zion, try… Capitol Reef National Park

Capitol Reef National Park

Unsurprisingly, Zion National Park in Utah was the National Park Service’s third most visited in the year 2020 at 3.6 million recreational visits. It’s easy to see the draw of its iconic hikes, such as Angel’s Landing and the Narrows, but there are so many other opportunities to enjoy similar landscapes in Utah.

Capitol Reef is one of Utah’s least visited parks, a true hidden gem– and it’s difficult to understand why it doesn’t get more attention. The park is home to Utah’s trademark red rock as well as its own unique features. For example, there’s a 100 mile long wrinkle in the surface of the earth called Waterpocket Fold as well as many cathedral-like red rock formations.

Sample Itinerary: An Odyssey Through Utah’s National Parks

When visiting Acadia National Park, try… Schoodic Peninsula

Schoodic Peninsula – NPS Kent Miller

While Schoodic Peninsula actually is a part of Acadia National Park, it’s much less crowded than the other main parts of the park. Schoodic Peninsula is the only part of the park on the mainland of Maine, but it boasts the same rocky, granite headlands and coastal views with a fraction of the crowds.

This part of the park includes miles of hard-packed gravel bike paths, which offer spectacular views along their winding, wooded routes. There are plenty of off shoots from the main six-mile loop, but one of the highlights is Schoodic Point and its view of Mount Desert Island and the Atlantic Ocean.

Sample Itinerary: Islands and Inlets: Maine Maritime Adventures

Instead of visiting Glacier, try…the Flathead National Forest

Glacier National Park with its beloved Going-to-the-Sun Road includes a 1,583-square-acre expanse of rugged mountains, gleaming lakes and all manner of alpine beauty.

Just south of Glacier and the Canadian border, Flathead National Forest offers the same beautiful, mountainous landscapes with even more room to roam: there’s more space and fewer visitors. With over 2,000 miles of trail, campgrounds and ski areas, Flathead National Forest has seemingly endless ground to explore year-round. One of the best ways to see this expansive national forest is by pack trip. Riding along on horseback and with the immersive experience of camping in the Montana wilderness overnight, you’ll be able to interact with nature in a completely new way.

Sample Itinerary: Glacier National Park, Pack Trip and Luxury Ranch

The post Low Impact Alternatives to the Most Visited National Parks appeared first on All Roads North.

Take this opportunity to do a little armchair traveling to get inspired for your next adventure. 

Desert Solitaire

by Edward Abbey

This iconic piece of nature writing, based on Abbey’s summer stints as an Arches National Park ranger in the late 1950s, remains as relevant now as it was when published in 1968. While on a quest to experience nature in its purest form, Abbey explores the paradox of existing as a solitary, independent man in the desert, while still participating as a member of the greater ecosystem. Readers will find a lot to think on and to anticipate with Abbey’s vivid descriptions of the harsh Southwestern landscapes near Moab woven into his message of conservation. 

Goes Well With:  An Odyssey Through Utah’s National Parks and The Life of a Backcountry Guide in Utah’s Remote Escalante Canyons

My First Summer in the Sierra

by John Muir

This account of John Muir’s first encounters with the Yosemite Valley has been luring visitors to California since this book was published in 1911. Follow along as “The Father of the National Parks” and founder of the Sierra Club spends the summer of 1869 working as a shepherd in the Sierra Nevada Mountains. 

The budding naturalist’s notes are flush with detailed descriptions of the Sierra’s flora and fauna, tales of explorations of now-famous landmarks, and several life lessons Muir gleaned from four months of sheep observation. This is a must-read before exploring any of the areas Muir later worked to conserve. 

Goes Well With: Stunning Yosemite and Sequoia National Parks 

American Serengeti

by Dan Flores

Bison, pronghorn antelope, wild horses, grey wolves and grizzly bears are species that Yellowstone and Grand Teton National Park visitors count themselves lucky to see today. According to environmental historian Dan Flores,  just 200 years ago these same species were roaming the American plains in numbers we can’t fathom. 

Flores follows the sagas of six different species over thousands of years until their respective declines at the hands of pioneers, hunters, ranchers and federal killing programs in the 19th and 20th centuries. This, combined with the “Big History” of the grassland ecosystems we encounter in the American West, will give readers a deeper appreciation for the vistas and wildlife encounters in the Western states. 

Goes Well With: Zapata Ranch: Shirkers Need Not Apply

The Lobster Chronicles: Life on a Very Small Island

by Linda Greenlaw

Travel to the Isle au Haut, a tiny island in Maine’s Acadia National Park with 70 year-round residents, 30 of whom are related to author Linda Greenlaw.  After a lengthy and high-risk career as a sword-fisherman (which landed her a role in the famous The Perfect Storm), Greenlaw returns to rural island life.  

The account balances the lighter sides of rediscovering her family and home with the darker aspects of island life, including boating accidents and conflicts that can rock small communities.  If the descriptions of Acadia’s landscapes aren’t enough to get you excited about coastal Maine, the description of the seafood certainly will.

Goes Well With: Luxury Holiday to New England

American Wolf

by Nate Blakeslee

The grey wolf’s presence has been one of the most polarizing issues of the American West since populations were reintroduced in the 1990s. In American Wolf, Blakeslee uses O-Six, a grey alpha matriarch with a rabid social media following, to illustrate the wolf’s struggle to reclaim its place and restore balance in Yellowstone National Park.  

Blakeslee collaborates with park ranger Rick McIntyre, who spent 15 years carefully following the wolf’s return to the park.  Together, they follow O-Six’s pack and observe the pressures they face from ranchers, hunters, politicians and well-meaning tourists, all of whom affect where and how wolves can live.

Goes Well With: Wolves, Wildfire and Water

Undaunted Courage

by Steven E. Ambrose

Follow the Corps of Discovery’s epic adventure across the Great Plains, over the Rocky Mountains, and down the Columbia River from the perspective of Captain Meriwether Lewis. Lewis and Clark may be household names, but Undaunted Courage supplies a wealth of previously unknown information, while capturing the suspense, political drama, romance, tragedy and danger that accompanied the 8,000 mile journey.  Ambrose provides context for the expedition within the Jefferson Presidency, early Native American policies, and the opening of the West to the nation. 

Goes Well With: Yellowstone and Grand Teton Road Trip 

The post Adventures of the Mind: Six Armchair Reads for Exploring America’s Wild Places appeared first on All Roads North.

On the trip in general…

I am probably the person least likely to use a travel service for planning a vacation but on this trip I discovered I may actually be the one who needs it most! I have spent hours scouring tourism websites, Yelp, and the like when planning past vacations looking for the best activities, trusted guides, and the most unique meals. The best part of this trip was the detailed suggestions on the journey guide for activities, places to eat, etc. I did not have to debate with hubby even ONCE about our itinerary! This could literally save a marriage. But we also weren’t trapped into doing anything we weren’t interested in or that we couldn’t fit in timewise. I LOVED driving through Texas. Those wide open spaces and sun faded landscapes were heaven for me! The itinerary was just perfectly scaled down enough to keep decision making simple but still give us options. I loved that each place to stay you chose was unique from the others and the mixture of nature, culture, art and shopping was just perfect!

On the Gage Hotel in Marathon…

The Gage Hotel is the perfect embodiment of what anyone who is new to Texas imagines Texas will look like, only better! All that country-western, high desert, cowboy ruggedness refined to a level of sophistication and comfort seen in the best hotels. It was unexpected and the most comfortable of all the hotels!

On hiking in Big Bend…

Wow wow wow! Coming off a long lazy winter, we probably tried to pack in more hiking than we should have, but we were seduced by all those rock formations! We hiked the Hot Springs trail and then soaked in the hot spring itself, as well as the Rio Grande River. On our full day we hiked The Mount Emory Trail, which started out as a longer hike to the south rim but we couldn’t resist attempting that peak when we got to the junction and changed plans midway. On the last day we tackled The Grapevine Hills Trail and the Tuff Canyon Floor Trail (we planned on going to Santa Elena Canyon but after learning about tuffaceous rock from our river guide I could not resist an up close and personal!). Each and every one of these trails offered a different landscape to explore. We were split half and half about our desire to see everything and our desire to avoid one of the rare bears or lions in the basin. We did not see any bears or lions but we did see snakes, lizards, Mexican Jays, road runners, javelina, deer, jack rabbits and a desert fox!

On Chisos Mountain Lodge…

An American road trip classic! You could easily imagine old Chevy station wagons loaded up with mom, dad and the kids! I doubt the lodge has changed much in forty years which makes it a nostalgic classic.  As a National Park, amenities were expected to be minimal, but we were pleasantly surprised by the mini-fridge and microwave in our room – when we stay there again (because we LOVED the park) I will definitely be a bit more prepared to mix up meals a bit with foods I bring in from a local grocery.

On the Texan night sky and the Marfa Lights…

One of the things I had on my list to see while in Texas were the stars! I had been told Big Bend was the best place to see stars and being a Chicagoan, I have gotten so used to seeing just a few in the sky due to all the light pollution, that I really wanted to see a million stars twinkling! Of course I was completely thwarted by the full moon! On the night we went to the Marfa lights viewing area, before the moon rose I was able to see more stars than I have ever seen in my life. So even if the Marfa lights are no-shows or underwhelming, the stars will take your breath away! The Marfa lights were honestly not what I expected. If some locals hadn’t been there pointing out the lights to their guests we would have dismissed what we saw completely, assuming they were car or airplane lights. So we saw a whole ton of lights but they were underwhelming. I’m honestly still not even sure if what I saw was what I was supposed to see? LOL!

On the ghost town of Terlingua…

We were so close after our kayaking trip we decided to check Terlingua out. It’s an interesting little town that was once a ghost town and is now becoming a quirky artistic spot much like Marfa. It’s small and there isn’t much going on yet, but definitely one to watch and we heard dinner at the Starlight Theater is good. The trading post is full of art and crafts from Big Bend and Mexico. My favorite part was the cemetery; many offerings remained from Dia de los Muertos celebration this past fall, some touching, some humorous.

On the weirdness of Marfa…

Marfa is a unique town! On the one hand you have these great little fancy boutiques stocked with beautiful artisan goods, and on the other hand you have these crazy little places that are busted up and falling apart. My artistic soul loves the dichotomy! I sell vintage and antiques and I have an appreciation for old weathered things that not everyone shares. We met quite a few people out and about in Marfa, from our first night sharing a table at Stellina with a mother daughter vacationing together, to our very last stop at New Star Grocery Art Museum with just 30 minutes of time left before heading home. We met wonderful people! Some were weirder than others (oh we have some stories!) but vacations are not for homogenous experiences. Weird is great as far as we are concerned. 

On El Cosmico, Marfa…

El Cosmico is just super cool! We weren’t sure what to expect in terms of amenities in the RV but it was fully stocked and so comfortable. The bed was way better than we anticipated, much more hotel and less camp, and we were very grateful for that. The sunrise was beautiful each day and I had a blast taking a late night bath under the stars on the deck.

On the Chinati Foundation…

This was a very unique experience for the hubby and me. However, I’d love to see the Chinati Foundation restructure the tour because, as awesome as it was to be able to see some of these works and though the intention is publicly accessible art, you just don’t get nearly enough time to experience the pieces. Michael was so so enraptured with Donald Judd’s 100 untitled works and really wanted to spend more time walking in that building but we had to hurry to see Dan Flavin’s light installations in the time allotted. On a positive note, Michael found a new appreciation for modern art that I think really surprised him! This is a place that one could return to multiple times and have a different experience of the art each and every time.

All images credited to Tiffany Behrens

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Until recently, I had no idea you could hike down into the Grand Canyon. I had heard stories of people coming on tour buses, taking pictures of the view and then getting back on the bus.  According to a poster in my hotel, 99% of those hiking in the Grand Canyon do not venture below the rim. This kind of interaction did not appeal to me so I had never really wanted to go, until I discovered that you could walk down into it: suddenly my interest was piqued.

There are a number of approaches to the Grand Canyon but the main ones are the North and South Rim. Both have hiking trails that meet in the middle at the bottom of the Canyon. The North Rim is more peaceful, but since it was hundreds of miles farther from Flagstaff, Arizona, which was my stopping off point as I drove from East to West, I had to settle for the busier South Rim, which luckily turned out not to be so crowded after all. (On a side note: Flagstaff is a lovely town, full of breweries and students with an outdoorsy feel and it is only an hour and a half from the South Rim, which makes it a good base if you don’t want to stay in the park.)    

Bright Angel Trail drops 2,968 feet to Plateau Point and makes for a challenging 12 mile round trip from the rim (ph. L Kaye)

There are two trails from the South Rim down into the canyon. I chose the Bright Angel Trail since it had two water and toilet stopping points and a shady campsite half way down called Indian Gardens, whereas the South Kaibab trail was described as having no water and no shade – I thought, why make life harder for myself? I left my car at the Backcountry Office car park and made my way past the various lodges in the Grand Canyon Village to the trailhead at the edge of the canyon. Up ahead, through the trees, I realised something was strange, there was an emptiness where there should be more trees. Then I saw the canyon. It is true that no pictures or photos can prepare you for it – for a start, no photo could fit the whole panoramic stretch of it in. What surprised me was the colour: red yes, but mostly hazy pink and purple. It is incredibly beautiful but there is something raw and fear inducing about it – the river has cut the earth so deeply that you can’t actually see the water, just a dark zigzagging wound. It is a view that everyone should see, even if you do just get on and off a bus. After a few minutes taking it in, I made my way to the start of the walk.

In an ideal world I would have booked a bunk at the Phantom Ranch at the bottom of the canyon (or a campsite) but since I only discovered it existed that day and then found out that the spaces get snapped up a year in advance this was not an option. Also not an option is to walk all the way to the Colorado River and back in one day according to the numerous warning signs around the village. So I decide to go as far as the Indian Gardens and come back – a ten mile round trip.  

Hiking beneath the rom of the Grand Canyon gives you a totally different perspective and you really feel inside the canyon (ph. L Kaye)

The walk down is fine: everyone is friendly and greets one another. There are people of all ages, all shapes and sizes – even small children. I walk down with a girl from Oklahoma and we discuss politics. Like me, she was in Flagstaff the night before but had drunk so much of the excellent beer that she decides to stop at the second rest house. I continue to Indian Gardens alone. There are less people now and the landscape changes and it is surprisingly lush – tall trees, flowers and the burbling sound of the stream are very welcome after two hours in the sun.  I’m not particularly tired and have half a mind to continue to the river, though I know it is probably dangerous. I discuss this with a man in his seventies who tells me he has walked from the North Rim. It is his 26th time walking rim to rim – a 21 mile walk. The first time, he tells me, you either never want to hike again, or you’re hooked. He suggests that I walk out to Plateau Point – another 1.5 miles – rather than 5 down to the river which would add 10 miles onto my total and is definitely too much.  

The canyon drops in two phases – a steep cliff, then a flat plateau and then the narrow, deep crack in the earth: the wound. As I walk across a flat plateau of scrubby desert towards the edge, I look around and I suddenly realise I am really inside the canyon. I feel as though I am in a giant amphitheatre with cliffs rising up above me on all sides. The sun is very hot and I am scared that this was a mistake – there is nobody else around. But when I get to Plateau Point, to my relief, there are a few people there. And it is worth it to see the river below which is emerald green – so vivid against the red rocks. The scenery is so alien to me, I feel like I am on Mars.

The emerald waters of the Colorado River nearly 4,500 feet beneath the rim of the Grand Canyon (ph. L Kaye)

The climb back up isn’t as bad as I thought. I meet a woman who is a member of the Navajo tribe who comes from the area but has never been hiking in the Grand Canyon before. She tells me about growing up on the reservation with no water or electricity and we discuss portrayals of Native Americans in films like ‘Last of the Mohicans’ and ‘Dances with Wolves’. ‘We laugh at them,’ she tells me, though she can’t quite articulate why. The sky has mercifully clouded over and we are distracted from the pain by the view of the canyon, which changes with every switchback turn. I can’t think what this would be like on a cloudless day in August – I probably would have only made it 20 metres. Suddenly we are at the top and we take one more long look at the view before we say our goodbyes. I would say to anyone of any hiking ability to give it a go – you can always turn back. It really is worth it. Next time, I’m going to do the rim to rim.          

Laura Kaye is a television producer and author based in London. Her debut novel, English Animals, will be published in March 2017.

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Two huge stalagmites, Giant and Twin Dome, at Carlsbad Caverns (NPS – Peter Jones)

About 250 million years ago, the Guadalupe Mountains region lay under an ancient sea, close to a growing limestone reef. About 15 to 20 million years ago, the ground uplifted and with the help of sulfuric acid dissolving the limestone rock, the chambers were created. The formations were built drop by drop from limestone-laden moisture. Cave scientists have explored more than 30 miles of passages in the cavern, and as a visitor you  can tour three of those miles. Though the Native Americans who lived in the area knew about the cave, the person who is credited for first exploring the cave in 1898 is Jim White. Jim was a cowboy from Texas and discovered the caverns’ entrance when he saw a  cloud of bats spiraling out of the cave mouth.

When you arrive at the Carlsbad Caverns, you can choose to descend by one of two ways. You have the option of going down via the elevators or through the Natural Entrance. If you are able to, I would highly recommend using the Natural Entrance when you visit as you can observe the beautiful formations as you descend 750 feet down into the caverns. The biggest underground chamber in the United States is found at Carlsbad Caverns and is called the Big Room, it is also known as the Hall of Giants. The Big Room is about 3,800 feet long and 600 feet wide. There is also the King’s Palace, which is a series of four chambers containing unique rippled rock formations known as the Queen’s Draperies.

Visiting Carlsbad Caverns is not just an underground experience and a real highlight is watching a colony of about 400,000 Brazilian free-tailed bats spiraling out of the cave mouth at sunset as they depart on their nightly hunt for insects. The sight, arguably more fascinating than the cavern itself, occurs between the months of April or mid-May through October.

Brazilian free-tailed bats leaving the caverns (NPS – Nick Hristov)

The Carlsbad Caverns National Park also hosts night sky events in the summer. Fully-equipped with high-powered telescopes. park rangers shed light on the nocturnal wildlife, cultural folklore, and astronomy of the region. If you can time your visit to Carlsbad Caverns to coincide with the full moon, even better!  

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As a result of a legal tussle between the National Park Service and outgoing concessionaire, Delaware North, it was announced on Thursday that the Ahwahnee Hotel would now be called the Majestic Yosemite Hotel. No joke.

Delaware North, who won the contract to run Yosemite’s facilities in 1993, is demanding $51 million for the trademarks to not just the Ahwahnee Hotel name but several other iconic Yosemite hotels.

Yosemite Lodge at the Falls is to become Yosemite Valley Lodge, Curry Village is now Half Dome Village, and perhaps the blandest of them all is the historic Wawona Hotel, which now faces its future as Big Trees Lodge.

Related Article: 5 Winning Tactics for Visiting U.S. National Parks

The new names will go into effect on March 1 but Yosemite National Park spokesman Scott Gediman said that the park service is still fighting for the right to keep the original names.

“We are clearly in disagreement with Delaware North,” he said. “We’re taking this action to ensure the seamless transition.”

Amazingly, the name ‘Yosemite National Park’ is also under dispute but will not be changed at the moment.
Let’s hope we’re not facing a future with America’s most iconic National Park as ‘Wonderful Valley National Park’ and its centerpiece, the Majestic Yosemite Hotel. We for one like misspelling Ahawnee and will continue to use it!

(All Roads North works with the very best guides and has access to a range of accommodation options that allows us to craft a truly unique and tailored national park experience. Get in touch to speak with one of our area specialists or get a little inspiration from our Epic Road Trip to Sequoia and Yosemite)

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